During the past 6-months or so, the premium point-and-shoot category has been threatened relentlessly from all sides. Cameras like the Olympus XZ-1 are facing an uphill battle in terms of gaining market share.
- The cheap, small point-and-shoot cameras are getting more and more affordable with great functionality and small size.
- The entry-level DSLRs are getting ridiculously cheap and as long as you don’t mind the size, they’re one hell of a deal for under $1,000.
- Then the biggest threat would be the slew of mirrorless interchangeable cameras in the market where their physical sizes are barely larger than point-and-shoot cameras but have larger sensors and ability to change lenses!
The prosumer, premium point-and-shoot market used to be a huge money maker for digital camera manufacturers as it was the best option for those who can’t commit to a DSLR coming from a pocketable camera.
Luckily, the squeeze in the marketplace forced camera manufacturers to spend more resources to make a true portable camera for the advanced photographer, and we’ll find out if the Olympus XZ-1 is the camera for photographers looking for a small, backup travel camera.
You can check out the Olympus XZ-1 in our sponsor’s site for the latest price.
Contents
Olympus XZ-1 Retro-looking Chic
Olympus announced the fixed-lens, retro-looking point-and-shoot camera about a year ago (early 2011), but was overshadowed by Olympus’ Micro 4/3 releases such as the Olympus E-P2 and E-PL2, as well as Panasonic’s best selling Lumix LX-3 and LX-5.
Finally, Canon’s strong grip in the high-end digital point-and-shoot with the PowerShot G11 and Powershot S95 were already on the market.
Most advanced users that the high-end point-and-shoot camera targets have certain specific requirement for a back-up to their DSLRs. In my case, my list of requirements are simple:
- Standard Hot Shoe
- Fast, Sharp Lens
- Slim, professional-looking body
- Full manual control option
- RAW mode
- Good AF performance (for a P&S)
- Minimal shutter lag
- Decent ISO 800-1600 image quality
Let’s see if the Olympus XZ-1 fits the bill. I’ll keep this review casual as it’s really not very useful comparing specification sheets and lab test results for a camera like this.
What’s In The Box?
- XZ-1 Digital Camera
- Quick Start Guide
- USB Cable & Charger (F-2AC)
- Instruction Manual and IB Software CDs
- Audio/Video Cable
- Neck Strap
- Lithium-Ion Battery (LI-50B)
- Warranty Card
Specifications Summary
| Product type | Compact digital camera | |
| Memory | SD Memory Card(SDHC/SDXC compatible) ~64GB | |
| Screen size | 1/1.63” | |
| Effective Pixels number | 10M (3664 x 2752) | |
| Lens | Structure | 11elements in 8groups |
| Aspheric | 6 sides | |
| Focal length(35mm equivalent) | 6.0mm to 24.0mm(28mm to 112mm) | |
| Maximum aperture | 1.8-2.5 | |
| Optical zoom | 4x | |
| Digital zoom | 4x | |
| Imaging range | Normal:60cm to infinity, Macro:W:10cm to infinity,T:30cm to infinity. Super Macro:1cm to TBD,Wide-angle edge fixing |
|
| Sensor Details | Product type | 1/1.63″ High-Sensitivity CCD |
| Total no. of pixels | 4072×2784 | |
| Aspect ratio | 4:3 | |
| Recording(Still) | Recording format | DCF, DPOF compatible/Exif, PRINT Image Matching III |
| File format | RAW (12-bit lossless compression), JPEG, RAW+JPEG | |
| Recording image size | [RAW] 3648 x 2736 pixels | |
| [JPEG] 3648 x 2736 pixels – 640 x 480 pixels | ||
| File Size | RAW: 3648 x 2736 (approx. 1/1.5 lossless compressed) Approx. 17MB | |
| Large: 3648 x 2736 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 5.5MB | ||
| 3648 x 2736 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 3.1MB | ||
| Middle: 3200 x 2400 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 4.4MB | ||
| 3200 x 2400 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 1.9MB | ||
| 2560 x 1920 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 2.4MB | ||
| 2560 x 1920 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 1.3MB | ||
| 1600 x 1200 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 1MB | ||
| 1600 x 1200 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 0.5MB | ||
| Small 1280 x 960 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 0.7MB | ||
| 1280 x 960 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 0.4MB | ||
| 1024 x 768 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 0.5MB | ||
| 1024 x 768 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 0.3MB | ||
| 640 x 480 Fine (1/4 compressed) Approx. 0.2MB | ||
| 640 x 480 Normal (1/8 compressed) Approx. 0.2MB | ||
| Recording(Movie) | Recording format | AVI Motion JPEG(30fps) |
| Movie Mode | HD: 1280(H)x720(V) Aspect 16:9 SD: 640(H)x480(V) Aspect 4:3(VGA) |
|
| Compression Ratio | 1/12 | |
| File Size | Max 2GB(limited by AVI format) | |
| Maximum Recording Time | HD: 7min, SD: 14min | |
| Recording(Sound) | Recording format | Wave Format Base Stereo PCM/16bit, 44.1kHz |
| Maximum Recording Time | Picture with Sound: 30sec Movie: depend on Movie Recording Time |
|
| Live View | Type | Image Sensor type |
| Field of view | 100% | |
| Display Mode | Normal Mode | |
| Grid Line + Histogram Mode | ||
| OFF Mode | ||
| Magnification Ratio | Not available | |
| Monitor information | Aperture value, Shutter speed, Auto Bracket, AF mode, IS, Shooting Mode, Battery Check, My Mode, Face Detection, Histogram, Number of storable still pictures, Record mode, ISO, Sequential shooting, Self-timer, White Balance |
|
| Display of Face Detection | Max 8 frames of face detection can be displayed | |
| AF | Imager AF | |
| Image stabilizer | System | Built in (Imager shift image stabilizer) |
| Mode | 2 dimensional activation, OFF | |
| Effective compensation range | Approx.2EV steps | |
| Shutter speed range | 2 – 1/2000 sec. (Not available when Bulb is selected) | |
| IS for Movie | Electronic Image Stabilization with Multi-Motion function | |
| LCD | Product type | OLED |
| Size | 3.0 inches (3:2) | |
| Total no. of pixels | 614,000dots | |
| Playback field of view | 100% | |
| Brightness control | +2 levels and -2 levels | |
| Colour balance | Not available | |
| Focusing | AF system | Imager Contrast Detection AF system |
| Focus mode | Single AF (AF) / Manual Focus (MF) / Macro mode / SuperMacro mode / AF tracking (TR) | |
| Focusing point | 11-area multiple AF with the contrast detection system (Auto, selectable in option) | |
| Focusing point selection | Auto from all 11 area, Single area from 11 area Auto from almost all area when Face detection is ON Free selection (from 225points) when Magnified View Mode is selected |
|
| AF illuminator | Available | |
| Focus tracking | Available | |
| Manual Focus Assist | When rotation of Control dial is detected under MF mode, LV is magnified automatically | |
| Shooting Modes | P(Program Auto),iAUTO,A(Aperture priority).S(Shutter priority),M(Manual shooting),C(Custom shooting), | |
| Low Light,Art Filter,SCN(Scene) | ||
| Exposure Control | Metering system | TTL Image Sensor metering system |
| (1) Digital ESP metering (324-area multi pattern metering) (2) Center weighted average metering (3) Spot metering | ||
| Metering range | EV0-17 | |
| Exposure mode | (1) i Auto (2) P: Programme AE (3) A: Aperture priority AE | |
| (4) S: Shutter priority AE (5) M: Manual (6) Low Light (7) Scene select AE (8) Art Filter | ||
| Scene select AE | Portrait, e-Portrait, Landscape, Night Scene, Night + Portrait, Indoor, Self Portrait, Sport, Sunset, Fireworks, | |
| Multi Exposure, Cuisine, Document, Beach & Snow, Under Water Wide, Under Water Macro, Pet, Panorama | ||
| ISO sensitivity | AUTO: ISO 100 – 800 / Manual ISO 100 – 6400, 1/3 EV steps, Movie ISO 200-1600, Low light ISO 100-3200 | |
| Exposure compensation | ±2 EV in 1/3EV steps | |
| AE lock | Non available | |
| Exposure bracketing | Available | |
| Metering standard value adjustment | ||
| White Balance | Auto WB system | Available |
| Preset white balance | 6 settings (3000K – 7500K) Lamp (3000K), Fluorescent 1 (4000K), Fluorescent 2 (4500K), Daylight (5300K), Cloudy (6000K), Shade (7500K) , Under Water Auto, One Touch WB |
|
| White balance compensation | ±7 steps in each A-B/G-M axis (in Auto WB / Preset WB mode / One touch WB) | |
| CWB (Kelvin setting) | 1 setting can be registered at Kelvin temperature (2000K – 14000K) | |
| One-touch white balance | Available | |
| White balance bracketing | 3 frames in 2, 4, 6 steps selectable in each A-B/G-M axis. | |
| Colour Mode | Colour space | sRGB |
| Picture Mode | Mode | Vivid, Natural, Portrait, Muted, Monotone |
| Adjustment parameter | Contrast, Sharpness and Saturation level available in 5 steps for Vivid, Natural, Portrait and Muted | |
| Contrast and Sharpness level available in 5 steps for Monotone. | ||
| Filter effect | Yellow, Orange, Red or Green filter available for Monotone | |
| Picture tone | Sepia, Blue, Purple or Green tone available for Monotone | |
| Gradation | 4 levels (Auto, High key, Normal, Low key) | |
| Shutter | Shutter speed | 60 – 1/2000 sec. |
| Bulb: up to 16 min. | ||
| 1/3 steps | ||
| Self-timer | Operation time: 12 sec., 2 sec. (cancel available) | |
| Remote cable release | Available (with optional RM-UC1 Remote cable.) | |
| Drive | Drive mode | Single-frame shooting, Sequential shooting, High-speed Sequential shooting1,High-speed Sequential shooting2,Self-timer |
| Sequential shooting speed | Approx. 2 frames/sec. in sequential shooting | |
| Max. recordable pictures | RAW mode: Max. 8 frames. | |
| on sequential shooting | JPEG mode: Depends on compression ratio and no. of pixels (Large normal mode: approx. 23 with Toshiba Super High Speed type “Class 6″ 4GB) |
|
| Flash | Built-in flash | Available |
| Compatible external flash | E-system Flash(FL-36R, FL-20, FL-14,FL-50R) *FL-50R(Can only be used with wireless. Cannot attach to body) |
|
| Flash mode of External Flash | Auto, Red-eye reduction, Red-eye reduction slow sync., Slow sync at 1st curtain, Slow sync at 2nd curtain, Fill-in, Off. | |
| Flash intensity control | Up to ±2 EV in 0.3 EV steps | |
| Art Filter | Mode | Pop Art, Soft Focus, Grainy Film, Pin Hole, Diorama, and Dramatic Tone |
| Multi Exposure | Number of picture | 2 frames |
| Functions | Auto gain, | |
| Multi Aspect | Aspect Ratio | 4:3/3:2/16:9/6:6 |
| Input/Output | PC interface | USB 2.0 High Speed for storage through Multi-connector(MTP mode is available) |
| TV interface | HDMI(HD/Stereo Sound), VIDEO-OUT(SD/Mono Sound) | |
| USB/Video connector | Dedicated multi-connector (Video: NTSC/PAL selectable, Optional Remote cable RM-UC1, USB cable is available) | |
| HDMI | Mini HDMI type-D | |
| Flash attachment | Hot shoe | |
| DC-in | Yes(Multi terminal) | |
| Accessory attachment | Accessory port | |
| Accessories Chart | External Fkash | FL-36R, FL-20, FL-14,FL-50R(Can only be used with wireless.Cannot attach to body) |
| Viewfinder | VF-2 | |
| External microphone | SEMA-1 + ME51SW | |
| Armlight | MAL-1 | |
| Accessory for underwater photography | PT-050 | |
| AC cable | F-3AC | |
| Remote Cable | RM-UC1 | |
| Charger | LI-50C | |
| Compatible OS | Windows XP SP2, Windows XP x64Edition, Windows Vista, Windows Vista SP1, Windows 7, Mac OS 10.3-10.6 | |
| Power Requirements | Battery | Li-50B (included) |
| Sleep mode | Available (20sec, 1min, 3min, 5min) | |
| No. of recordable pictures (with 50% flash light) | Approx. 320 shots | |
| Power battery holder | Non available | |
| Memory | Internal memory (for shooting) | 54.6MB |
| Dimensions/Weight | Dimensions | 4.35 in (W) x 2.55 in (H) x 1.67 in (D) (110.6 mm x 64.8 mm x 42.3 mm) |
| Weight | 9.70oz / 275g (body, battery and media) | |
| Operating Environment | Temperature | 0 – 40° (operation) / -20 – 60° (storage) |
| Humidity | 30 – 90% [operation] / 10 – 90% [storage] | |
Body, Design & Ergonomics
The Olympus XZ-1 is a nice and appealing camera to have, especially in white. Quite a lot of folks give second-looks with the XZ-1 hanging around my neck, partly because the folks who look at it probably expect it to be an Olympus E-P series but it’s too small, or expect it to be a normal point-and-shoot but the exposed lens is unusually large in diameter.
The white finish is nice and glossy, but with a very solid feel. It’s thin enough in profile with the front and top panels looking very clean and minimalist. By the way, the black version is significantly cheaper than the white one, but the white one is a lot nicer to look at.
The lens is large, so that means Olympus couldn’t fit a self-retracting, mechanical lens cover without compromising the diameter even further, so they provided a pressure-fit lens cap instead.
Luckily for us, the lens cap comes with a low-profile loop hole and string to keep the cap from disappearing in your camera bag. You can just turn on the camera and the lens pops off nicely.
I’d prefer buying a cool retractable lens protector like the one below.
The top panel hides the pop-up flash very well too, no unsightly bulges nor exposed flash bulb. The lens retracts to a nice, pancake-like appearance when the camera’s turned off.
The blue power indicator light is quite annoying, however, it’s so bright and intrusive. Not that it’s a big issue, but there’s really no logical reason to put a fiery blue torch just to indicate that the camera’s on.
The rear portion of the camera houses a large OLED screen with the rear dial/rocker combo wheel controlling most of the camera’s settings. A dedicated movie record button nestled around a small rubber thumb rest up top.
As small as this rubber pad is, it proved to be very useful to improve grip and single-handed shooting.
Other controls include the a dedicated flash mode, drive mode, focus mode/ AF-point selector, as well as a the exposure compensation buttons on the control dial. The MENU, image review, delete buttons sums up the software-access buttons.
Oh, there’s also a switch on the top left that pops the built-in flash and right under the hotshoe is the accessory port for you to attach the Olympus VF-2 electric viewfinder as well.
I noticed something with the Olympus XZ-1, however, when you’re carrying the camera around, you’ll feel a loose, rattling movement on the camera. After a bit of observation, it turns out that the lens design and assembly is causing the wobble.
I’ve never experienced a wobble that pronounced, I wonder if it’ll be an issue long-term.
Twist Knob Adjustment
Like the Canon S90/S95, the Olympus XZ-1 has a rotating knob around the lens for you to access adjustments like ISO, aperture size, shutter speed, etc. depending on which shooting mode you’re in.
The knob is very intuitive to use but I feel that the tactile feel is a bit light. I’d prefer a better click-feel than a light turn.
Basic Features That I Like on the Olympus XZ-1
As I mentioned before, there are certain features that I look for in a premium compact camera. Having PASM (Program, Aperture-Priority, Shutter Priority, Manual) modes would be the first requirement.
Thankfully, the XZ-1 has a proper knob for mode selection and not nested deep in the menu like the Olympus E-PM1 that I reviewed earlier (read the Olympus E-PM1 review here).
The mode dial works well with better feel than the main rotating lens knob. However, since a small portion of the wheel protrudes from the edge of the camera, it does have a tendency to change modes if you have big thumbs.
To be honest, the Olympus XZ-1 is a lot easier to get familiar with compared to the Olympus Micro 4/3 cameras. The user-interface is a lot more holistic and logical than the larger mirrorless cameras. It took me a few hours to start using and adjusting things to my heart’s content compared to the days required to learn the confusing menus of the E-P series of cameras.
Also, a proper and standard hotshoe is available. The hotshoe uses the proprietary Olympus TTL hotshoe pin pattern but I’ve tried using it with both Canon and Nikon flashes in manual mode with no problems, surprisingly. No need to tape contacts and stuff. Radio triggers work just fine too.
Lens – The Fast f/1.8 Lens
One of the key features of the Olympus XZ-1 is the large, fast, f/1.8 lens. Of course, it’s not a constant-aperture f/1.8 throughout its 28-112mm equivalent focal length, but even at 112mm, the aperture stays at f/2.4, which is still quite big for a compact.

Wide Angle

Telephoto
The lens is very sharp and offers great contrast. It’s focusing mechanism is pretty quiet and fast too. In fact, the lens’ wobble rattle sounds are probably louder than the AF. It’s really an excellent lens.
The f/1.8 may only be a third of a stop faster than the f/2.0 lenses of the Canon S95, but the real advantage is at the longer telephoto end.
With the S95, for example, at maximum zoom, the aperture closes down to f/4.9 already compared to the XZ-1′s f/2.4. The result is better background separation and thinner depth-of-field for portraits and zoomed-in composition.

BOHKEH! – Kai of DigitalRev
A fast lens allows you to use lower ISO and faster shutter speeds given the same lighting condition as a slow lens. You’ll have more options and creative freedom with a faster lens throughout its zoom range.
Distortion is decent throughout the zoom range for a P&S camera but visible barrel distortion can be seen at wide angle settings.

Distortion Wide Angle

Distortion Tele
Here’s how the distortion looks with normal subjects:

Distortion Wide Angle
Shutter Lag and Auto-Focus
Shutter lag is hardly noticeable, as soon as the focus locks, the image capture is pretty instantaneous. However, shot-to-shot processing and RAW file processing during burst mode is noticeably slower, but not by much, than a Canon G12 or Panasonic LX5.
However, I’m splitting hairs here. Chances are, you’ll never be bothered by the delay unless you shoot a lot of burst shots in RAW mode (to which you should be grabbing a more appropriate tool, no?)
Auto-focus is pretty standard. The layout is the same 11-point AF we see in the Olympus PEN series. The face-recognition and AF speed is good and predictable.
Remember that this is still a compact camera and AF speed will not be it’s strong point compared to a DSLR, for example. But rest assured, you won’t be missing too many shots with AF hunting with the Olympus XZ-1.
Low-light AF performance is respectable due to the efficient use of AF-assist beam. Thank goodness that it’s not using the flash strobe as an AF-assist, instead, it has a dedicated orange AF-assist lamp that works really well up to 8ft or so in total darkness.
There are two macro modes in the XZ-1, a regular macro mode and a super macro mode. The latter allows you to focus literally millimeters from the subject. For more accurate focusing, however, it’s best to pre-select and AF point and compose before taking a shot or use manual focus.

Super Macro of a 1-inch Mushroom

Normal Macro Mode
The close minimum focusing distance means lots of easy opportunities to take eye-catching macro shots.
Flare control is OK but not stellar. The close proximity of the sensor to the lens elements probably have something to do with it.

Flare backlight
Movie Mode
As with my other reviews, my apologies, my video shooting experience with cameras fall under the soccer-dad category where I only shoot videos of my son playing around or for his LEGO Youtube videos so I know nothing about video compression, quality, etc.
The Olympus XZ-1 still inherits the half-press AF during video recording which I truly appreciate unlike other pocket cameras that don’t allow you to zoom nor adjust AF when the movie starts recording.
Audio is recorded via stereo microphones so the quality is satisfactory for my needs. However, the dangling lens cap and lens wobble would probably make audio recordings a chore and the Olympus XZ-1 doesn’t offer external mic input.
Continue to Page 3, click the page below.
ISO Performance and Image Quality of the XZ-1
The 1/1.63″ CCD sensor records 10 megapixels of data which is just about right, the size of the sensor is identical to most P&S in the market right now.
Colors and Details
Colors are reproduced in a typical Olympus fashion. Punchy and with good contrast right out-of-the-box without going all poster-color.
Judging from the histogram readings, the Olympus sensor and processor hold details pretty well in deep reds and yellows but tends to give up a little earlier in the blues. Again, it’s not really a big deal unless you’re a pixel peeper.


Shooting RAW improves latitude a little but the JPEG processor is pretty darn good already.
Auto White Balance settings work pretty well with the exception of really strong tungsten lights, as much as I enjoy using Kelvin settings on DSLRs, I prefer using AWB on P&S and I’m glad to report that there’s no hair-pulling white balance correction sessions for the most part.
Dynamic Range and Tonality
I’ve always been pretty surprised by how well compact cameras handle the usual blue-sky-with-buildings scenes in the highlight and midtone readings.

The Olympus cameras I’ve been playing with the past 2 months (thanks to Olympus for the cameras!) have impressed me with photos of blue skies with ample shadow details in drab Singapore skies without me having to recover highlights or bump up midtones in Photoshop.


Details and Sharpness
The Olympus XZ-1′s wonderful lens practically guarantees a highly detailed and sharp images throughout the zoom range. Coupled with an effective stabilization system, the odds of shooting sharp images are pretty high.
However, the rather aggressive noise reduction nature of the Olympus XZ-1, just like the Digital PEN series, is the limiting factor for highly detailed macros, but for portraits, I find it quite pleasing to be honest.


ISO Samples
As always, a small sensor suffers from high-ISO noise a lot easier than a large sensor camera, but today’s technology coupled with fast optics have made significant strides in this regard.
For the Olympus XZ-1, ISO 100-400 is very good for a compact with ISO 800 starting to show some visible graininess on A4 prints but quite usable for web purposes (1200px at 72dpi or so) and ISO 1600 would be the max setting I’d ‘o for usable shots in low-light without flash.

ISO 100

ISO 400

ISO 1600
I wish manufacturers stop boasting ISOs that don’t really give you any usable details in photos anymore as ISO 6400 isn’t really useful anymore for the XZ-1′s target market.
Still ISO 1600 is very usable if decent light is available at night, as long as you’re at f/2.0-2.2 range as the lens performs really well at this aperture range.

Sample at ISO 1600
Panoramic Mode
Before I conclude this lengthy review of the Olympus XZ-1, I’d like to point out the Panorama mode of the XZ-1 for a second.
The Panorama mode of the Olympus XZ-1 uses a dot-alignment system wherein you take a first shot, then align an on-screen dot indicator for the camera to automatically snap the next two shots to form a 3-image stitch.
You can’t sweep the camera like the Sony NEX series (which, in my opinion, is the best implementation of a panoramic shooting mode), but the dot-alignment approach is pretty good as well.
Check out these two samples (click on the image for larger view), they’re both stitched in-cam automatically with zero post-production in alignment, just the image resize.
It’s fun and amusing to use.
All is not perfect though because if you’re in Panorama mode, everything’s automated. You can’t adjust focus, ISO, etc. Which is a shame as it’d be great if I can mount it on a tripod and use the lowest ISO for big panoramas.
Conclusion – Is The Olympus XZ-1 For You?
If you’re just looking for a small, portable camera to use everyday and you’re not into manual settings, hot shoe flash, etc. then I believe you’d be better off with simpler pocket digital cameras like the Canon PowerShot S100 or Sony Cyber-shot DSC-HX100V would be better choices.
However, If you’re a DSLR owner who’s looking for a nice, small back-up camera or a point-and-shoot user who wants to upgrade to a more serious camera without the bulk of a DSLR or even a mirrorless camera, then the Olympus XZ-1 is one of the best camera out in the market today.
What I Liked
|
What I Didn’t Like
|
It’s incredibly flexible, good-looking, and an excellent value at this price range. It’s still a couple of hundred bucks cheaper than the cheapest mirrorless camera in the market and the Olympus XZ-1 fits in the pocket as well.
Rating: 4.5/5 Stars / Highly Recommended!
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Hello everyone!
Here is my question: can somebody let me know which is / are the best setting / settings for low-light pictures?
Second question: the shake camera icon is almost ea. time present in ea. of the PASM modes…
Is it normal or I should check with the Olympus repair facility?
Many thanks,
Franjo
Hi Franjo,
For low-light, it’s the same with almost any camera. For the XZ1, I suggest 1600 ISO, but the most critical part is to make sure you’ve placed the camera on a stable surface. There’s no getting around the need for a stabilized platform or tripod at night.
If you’re shooting indoors for parties and such, I always recommend attaching a small, swivel-ready hotshoe flash.
The camera shake icon simply indicates that the settings you’ve chosen (or the settings the camera has chosen) is too slow for hand-held photos. You either have to hold the camera really, really steady or place it on a tripod.
It’s just an indicator telling you that if you try to take a shot at that setting handheld, odds are high that your image will be a little blurry due to camera shake.
Dave
so this has better image quality than the s95/100 and the lx5?
hi!
which produces better pictures, this or the lumix lx5?
thanks
and the s95/100 as well
Hi, IQ wise, the cameras you’ve mentioned are pretty similar even if you pixel peep. The main differences lie in how the noise is handled when you reach 800-up. For all intended purposes, the key factor for all these small cams wouldn’t be the sensor (most P&S sensors are made by the same 1 or 2 manufacturers anyway), but the lens itself, and all of the cameras you’ve mentioned have very good lenses. The XZ-1′s main advantage is it stops down at a longer focal length and has a larger aperture at max zoom than the Canons. So it’s closer to the LX5.
Update 10/2010 I wrote this reivew a long time ago but it’s still true today. I moved my 50mm from my E300 to my E3 and still get great portraits from it. I bought the macro empty tube for real closeups and the teleconverter as adjuncts to make this more useful I don’t recommend everyone buys those items unless you are taking forensic pictures in macro mode or want a 200mm 35mm equivalent lens. The tube is cheap because there is no glass inside it moves the lens out for magnification w/o glass. I just wanted to point out that I’ve been following this lens price and this month its down lower than the past year (where it approached five bills) so now is a good time to buy at 438 usd. Review begins below. Before purchasing this lens you should read some literature. You don’t need to be a lens expert but know what MTF means. MTF is modulation transfer function. It is a qualty by which lenses are judged.
The more linear the plot, the better the odds you’ve bought a winner. Olympus and Cannon both publish their MTF plots of their BETTER quality lenses. They don’t publish the plots of the included in the box lenses. For good reason. You can analyze them on a machine if you have a lab and discover they resemble a rollercoaster and not a horizontal line like you would prefer.
Google MTF LENS modulation transfer function and you’ll be on your way then visit OLY’s website and click on the MTF curves on this lens. You’ll see why it is so well thought of. Now let’s talk Zoom. Remember your old 35mm camera. If you wanted a closeup, you walked towards the person. A wide angle meant walking backwards, mindful of the pool, traffic, etc. The zoom lens eliminated some of this to the extent of its focal length. This is not a zoom lens. It is called a PRIME lens. PRIME = opposite of ZOOM. It’s like that old friend on your first 35mm camera. But with a little under the hood. This is called a macro lens. That does not mean it only can shoot closeups. It will focus from 6 to infinity. For $35 or so you can buy a 3 piece set of magnifiers from Hoya or Tiffen they screw on like filters but magnify the image in 1, 2, and 4 diopter power. Like using a loupe to view a stone, they help you see the fine detail.
The microprinting in the new $20 bill is easy to photograph with this lens. You can see things not visable to the naked eye with it. Finally as I mentioned the focus does cover close up to infinity like any good lens (just unscrew those magnifiers used to photo your stamp collection). But you will see that while most lenses (in meters) will have a readout of 1, 2, 5, 9, 15, 25, infinity in meters this lens starts way down at 0.22 m (22 cm!) the next number is about 0.24 m. The point is there is a wide range of focus space down close to the lens below a meter, then 1, 2, 3 meters. For closeups this can’t be beat.
This is not to say you can’t use this lens like old’faithful on your first 35mm camera. I’ve shot entire photoshoots with this just stepping back a couple times to frame the shot how I wanted it. I also switch to aperature mode (A) on the Oly Evolt and stopped down the lens to F10 outside or with the FL-50 flash. My depth of field was dramatic everything came into sharp focus with the crosshairs in the middle. Printing the images on 24 wide photo paper and a HP designjet drafting/photo printer gave the final satisfaction. This is one awesome lens. No zoom, but pictures so sharp and detailed with contrast unheard of before that when I run out to catch a good photo, this lens is normally on my camera. And I also have the 50-200 ED zoom.
The 50 ED PRIME lens will outperform the 50 zoom under most occasions. It’s a starter lens, a quality lens (mid level in the OLY 3 tier quality system), a macro lens, and best of all a razor sharp lens that maintains contrast (you normally give up one for the other). There is a lot of glass inside this piece, and good glass at that. I advise against the f=35 mm macro lens, as it is in the LOW quality group from oly. If you need a 1:1 scale, consider this lens with the extention tube for a little more and you’ll be close to 1:1 there.
Like all of the quality group of lenses in OLY’s lens plan, this has a focus meter on it to tell you where you are focusing, or to aid in manual focusing.
Mine spends most of its time on the camera I’m sure you will enjoy printing photos from it as well. Shoot at F/10 and focus is almost not an issue at all in wide spaces. Inside, add the FL50 flash and shoot F/10 as well. You’ll be happy with the outcome.
One last note about flashes you’ll eventually want the ring flash for macro work. Undocumented is that the ring flash includes 4 modeling lights with a 3 minute timer on them. To put the macro ring flash on the macro lens requires a ring flash
Have you used the s100 or s95 for comparison in terms of image quality? I understand those cannons don’t meet some of your expectations, but am interested in your take.
Hi Zach (that’s my son’s name as well :D)
Yes, I’ve used the S90 and S95 quite a bit and in terms of image quality, they’re quite close, too close to call to be honest with all things equal.
The XZ-1 is a little sharper and have more contrast in the mid-tones which makes out-of-the-cam JPEGs look better than the S95 but not by much.
In terms of handling, the XZ-1 beats the S95 IMO, but that’s very subjective. I still like the overall package of the S95, but the lens itself is more than enough to pick the XZ-1 over the S95 as the lens difference can’t be compensated by noise reduction, not to mention the inability of the S95 to add a flash on top of it.
Neither are bad to be absolutely honest, but even if you don’t use a flash, f/2.4 at max zoom of the XZ-1 trumps the f/4.9 of the S95.
Thanks for dropping by!
Dave
Greetings from India David. A very useful review. You say the black is much cheaper than the white but here in India atleast both colors cost the same .Plus, the Olympus PEN EPL1 is atleast 10 -15 % cheaper tha XZ 1 here.But anyway, i’ll be getting a white XZ1 from US courtesy a relative in June 2012 and camera prices in USA are around 60% of the Indian prices.
Hi Dev,
Thanks for the insights on local India prices. That’s interesting to know as here in Singapore, the EPM1 is a couple of hundred bucks more expensive than the XZ-1.
Good luck with your purchase, I’m sure you’d love the camera :)
Don’t forget to share your photos when you get it! :)
Dave
Great review David. The XZ-1 was on my short list before I settled on the X10 :)
Eagerly awaiting your X10 review my friend :)