A Full Frame Camera’s Best Walk Around Lens
I wrote a review for the venerable Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM a few weeks ago and I got quite a few responses defending the lens and questioning my for the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM over the former. It seems like lot of folks also ignored my repeated statements that I’m basing my opinion and review on my needs, not theirs, so let’s move on.
Here is Canon’s own description of the lens:
Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM
This easy-to-use standard zoom lens can cover a large zoom area ranging from 24mm wide-angle to 105mm portrait-length telephoto, and its Image Stabilizer Technology steadies camera shake up to three stops. Constructed with one Super-UD glass element and three aspherical lenses, this lens minimizes chromatic aberration and distortion. The result is excellent picture quality, even at wide apertures. Canon’s ring-type USM gives silent but quick AF, along with full-time manual focus. Moreover, with dust- and moisture-resistant construction, this is a durable yet sophisticated lens that meets the demands of advanced amateur photographers and professional photographers alike.
Focal Length & Maximum Aperture 24-105mm f/4 Lens Construction 18 elements in 13 groups Diagonal Angle of View 84° – 23° 20′ (with full-frame camera) Focus Adjustment Inner focusing system with focusing cam Closest Focusing Distance 1.48 ft./0.45m Zoom System 5-group helical zoom (front group moves: 32.5mm) Filter Size 77mm Max. Diameter x Length, Weight 3.3 in. x 4.2 in., 23.6 oz. / 83.5mm x 107mm, 670g (lens only)
General Features
The Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM offers 4.375x zoom from wide angle to telephoto while maintaining a constant f/4 aperture opening throughout the focal range. The focal length covers a popular 24mm wide angle if you’re shooting film or 35mm equivalent sensors and a decent portrait length of 105mm at the telephoto end. For a crop sensor camera, that translate to 38-168mm equivalent field-of-view, while not wide enough by normal standards, most crop sensor users are quite familiar with starting at 38mm for wide angle.
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24mm wide angle
105mm telephoto
Image Stabilizer
The main feature of the lens outside its optical capabilities is the built-in image stabilization (aka IS) that offers 3-stops more of hand-holdability.
To explain how this works, we have to look back to the classic “rule” that to maintain a decently sharp image while hand-holding the camera, a camera user must use a shutter speed equivalent or higher than the focal length of the lens. In practice, that means that if you’re using a 100mm lens, your shutter speed should be at least 1/100 sec. to maintain a sharp image, otherwise, camera shake will be recorded in your image. In addition, some people claims that for crop-sensor cameras, the focal length multiplier must be considered. So if you’re using a 1.6x crop camera, like most Canons, your 100mm should equate to 160mm on full frame (100mm x 1.6), your minimum shutter speed should be 1/160 or faster. This, naturally, depends on your personal skill of holding and stabilizing your camera and lens as some users can break this 1/focal length guideline with ease while others will still get a blurry image because they jab on their shutter button (or they’re riding on a bumpy road, for example).
Image stabilization offers a way to steady the image and neutralize the camera motion induced by the user by several “stops”.
Following the guideline above, if you’re shooting a 100mm focal length lens, you’re adviced to use 1/100 sec. shutter speed to obtain a sharp image. With a stabilized lens, however, you can hand-hold the lens at 1/50, 1/25, 1/10th of a second and still maintain a sharp, shake-free image.
Canon and Nikon implement their camera-shake reducer (this is as generic as I can get) in their lenses, while Olympus, Sony, and Pentax put theirs in the camera body. Each has its own pros and cons, I’m not dwelling into that issue right now.
Back to the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM, Canon claims that the IS unit installed allows three-stops of hand-holdability, so my example above is valid. To show you how effective this feature is, just look at the following images.
IS OFF 1/10sec @ F/4 -105mm
IS ON 1/10sec @ F/4 – 105mm
Hand-held IS ON 1/15sec @ f/4 ISO800
Needless to say, it works mighty fine. You can get spoiled by it fast if your first lenses are IS enabled. Naturally, as your camera holding skills improve, the more effective IS will be.
So are there anything special that you have to worry about with IS-enabled lenses? Yes, first would battery life. The motors and gyros inside the lens that stabilizes the image has to get its juice somewhere, so your battery longevity will take a hit with IS.
I suggest that you turn it off if you’re used to shooting without image stabilization when there’s sufficient light that allows you to shoot above 1/100sec anyway. In addition, turn the image stabilizer off when you’re camera is stabilized anyway, such as when mounting on a tripod or table top.
Second is not really a “problem” but a “realization” for some. Having a stable camera/lens is just like as mounting it on a tripod, the camera may be steady, but the subjects are not influenced by image stabilization.
If you mount your camera on a tripod, for example, a moving subject will still blur in your image while stationary subjects will be sharp. The same thing happens with image stabilized lenses. The non-moving elements in your photo will be sharper than a non-stabilized lens, but any moving subject will still be blurred if the shutter speed fails to freeze the subject. In order to freeze a moving subject, a faster shutter speed must be used, this is where the previously reviewed Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM comes in, along with even much faster prime lenses than can allow more light onto the sensor/film with large apertures like the EF 85mm f/1.2L USM lens.
Optics and Image Quality
Optically, the lens is sharp and renders a lot of details for a zoom of its kind. It’ll be hard to tell it apart from the EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM‘s image wide open, and even near impossible when stopped down. The lens is sharp, contrastly, and quite resistant to flare.
Vignetting is negligible on a crop sensor, and with today’s post-processing software, removing vignette takes no more than a drag of a slider adjustment.
Note the green flare near the car’s wheel area
Bokeh
Bokeh, or out-of-focus quality, is more than decent for an f/4 lens, especially at longer focal lengths. The out-of-focus edges are a bit ‘busy’ and a little sharp but for an F/4 lens, it’s expected.
The degree of blur is highly dependent on the camera-to-subject and subject-to-background distance ratio. As long as you can keep your subject nearer to the camera while keeping the background farther from the subject, the background blur will be pleasing.
While it can’t rival wider aperture lenses, especially the EF 85mm f/1.2L USM, the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM at 105mm can still separate the subject from the background sufficiently.
1/60sec @ f/4, ISO 800, 105mm
1/60 @ f/4, ISO 200, 73mm
1/125 @ f/4, ISO 200, 83mm
I discussed about the merits of using a faster lens for low-light shooting to freeze subject motion previously. Obviously, the larger the maximum aperture allowed by the lens, the faster the shutter speed you can use during low light.
If you’re shooting a running dog, for example, 1/100sec @ f/4 may not be sufficient to freeze the subject, by having an f/2.8 lens, you can now shoot at 1/200 @ f/2.8, which is a stop faster. The advantage is obvious and is critical for freezing motion.
1/60sec @ f/4, ISO 400, 82mm
I’ve been reading responses that the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM is a superior lens due to its f/2.8 speed again and again, and I agree that that lens offers more optical benefits than the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM. The point that I’m reiterating is, I don’t need to shoot at f/2.8 often as a flash is available for me (whether pop-up or external unit) and I prefer to go with that route.
In addition, the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM is a daily, carry-on lens that I’ll use everywhere, I prefer the size, weight, and IS functionality of this lens over its f/2.8 cousin.
The EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM is immensely sharp from center to edge on a crop sensor. The weight is just right for daily, prolonged usage and the Image Stabilization will help most photographers tremendously in capturing shake-free images without a tripod. The lens does not creep when pointed downwards even if handled roughtly, while the construction is top notch, with the zoom and focus ring staying in place with the right amount of torque to prevent accidental movements.
Here are some more samples.
1/160sec @ f/7.1, ISO 100, 95mm
1/320sec @ f/8, ISO200, 102mm
1/25sec @ f/4, ISO 400, 24mm
1/60 @ f/4, ISO 800, 73mm
1/100sec @ f/4 ISO200 @ 105mm
1/60 @ f4 ISO200 @ 105mm
1/30sec @ f/5 ISO400 @ 105mm
Both are wonderful lenses and perform very closely to one another optically (as confirmed by numerous professional reviews) and you can hardly go wrong with either – and I chose the EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM as my daily, all-purpose lens.
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About David L. Tong
Nice review. :) Now, I want to buy this lens. On the other hand (This may be really off topic), I just want to ask what to buy as my second camera, a 550d or 60d? Just wondering.
Kat, why not the 600D? You can\’t go wrong with either to be honest, but the 550D is an old model (not that it really matters), but unless you get a REALLY good discount with the 550D, it wouldn\’t make sense not going to the 600D.
I'm sorry, David. I am asking about 60d. :| Is 60d worth the price rather than 550d or 600d?
Short answer, yes… I think the 60D is a great value buy.
Yes, the 60D is worth the price over the 600D, based on ergonomics, the AF etc. But there\’s nothing wrong with the 600D either.
Dear David,
Was fortunate to find your web-site. Your reviews are very thorough. I too am considerring betwee the 24-70mm, 24-105mmand the 17-40mm. My concern would be sharpness comparible to a prime lens. Which lens from your experience is the sharpest? I am using a 60D.
Hi Paul and welcome to my little photography nook online :D
With regards to sharpness alone, I\’d need to know where you\’re going to base the sharpness \’rating\’ from. Online viewing vs. print often gives you different subjective results with the former (online) showing more subtle flaws at larger magnification vs. print.
Let\’s say that you\’re viewing both on screen, around 50% viewing size. The sharpness at f/4 for both lenses would be pretty similar, which means that even at wide-open, the EF 24-105 is pretty damn sharp whereas the EF 24-70mm isn\’t as sharp at f/2.8 wide open.
However, the differences are REALLY minimal. My advice is, don\’t worry about sharpness or contrast with these two lenses, they\’re very, very similar in output.
Determine what you shoot often and how you shoot. If you\’re a flash user or outdoor (good light) user, and you want to bring the lens all the time for walkaround, the 24-105 is a better choice as it\’s lighter, more versatile in focal range, and the IS helps a lot. But if you need the flexibility, speed, and low-light ability of an f/2.8, the EF 24-70 is a no brainer.
For a 60D, you might want to consider the EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM or the EF-S 15-85mm f/3.5-5.6 IS USM as well.. The argument for these two EF-S lenses are identical almost to the 24-70/24-105 hehe, one is faster but less versatile (and more expensive), and the latter is slower but a lot more real-world friendly.
I understand I\’m going off-topic a bit here, but in a lot of cases, viewing prints in small (smaller than A3 size) pretty much negates subtle differences in sharpness for pro-grade lenses. You really can\’t see the difference.
Cheers!
Dear David,
The reply was a lot more than I expected in a very good way. Thank you for taking the time. Will be sure to visit your web-site frequently.
My pleasure Paul. :)
Hello David! What a nice review. I am a photojournalist and I'm considering on buying this lens. I'm from the Philippines but do you know if this is cheaper in Hongkong?
Good day to you Stuart and thanks for dropping by.
Usually, HK prices are a little cheaper, but unless you know the market price for the unit in HK at the time of your visit, you might not exactly save that much considering the effort for shopping in a foreign place (particularly if you don't speak the language). I'd suggest you get a local unit and enjoy the local warranty instead unless you're saving over 10-15% from buying abroad.
Dave
Got that. Thank you! By the way, I'm using a 550D. I just learned that a 60D body is at the same price. do you think I should buy this lens or just swap my camera for a 60D?
P.s. Sorry about all the questions, I am just a high school student. :)
I'm afraid you're mistaken. The 60D is new and is the next model up to the 550D, there's no way it's priced the same. As of today, the 60D costs about 200-250USD more than the Rebel.
Like many, I am contemplating which lense is best for a crop camera. I am a using the camera for general purpose use. For me it boils down to this – If I am taking most of my pictures inside, go with the EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 IS USM. Inside photos would use the wider angle more, and low light so the 2.8 aperture is best. It is not an L lense, but all reviews indicate L quality images. The EF 24-70′s focal range isn’t as useful indoors, and it is very heavy and big.
For outside, walk-around, there is usually plenty of light, so a fast lense isn’t needed. I would go with either the EF 24-105 f/4L, or the new EF-S 15-85. However, there are several lenses that work good for walk-around. It largely boils down to focal length preference.
Another consideration, if you are looking at the newer cameras like the 7D, then you can really bump the ISO up without hurting image quality and your “slower” lenses all become faster with a higher ISO setting.
Thanks for all the ctmemnos Rick: I have to honestly say, I like the Canon cannon when teamed up with the 5D Mk II. The detail you get from that combo is really quite stunning. We went to a different location to test out the Nikon 70-200 f/2.8 VR II with a 12mp D700, and I have to say that I wasn’t as pleasantly surprised, though the Nikkor is a great lens. It would be interesting to see what the lens would be like on the D3X though Kenneth: Shannon: It is a very worthwhile investment. Jonny: I think being force-fed the Canon gear has the effect of brainwashing on me just kidding I have to say, I do like some Canon stuff right now. Enough to switch? Well, I’ve got more invested in Leica equipment right now, so I won’t be at a complete loss if I did. I wouldn’t hear the last of it in the office though if I did switch Cheers,Kai
Nice subjective review David. I tried both this and the 24-70 2.8 on my camera and am leaning more towards the same choice you made, mainly because of the weight and IS since I rarely shoot action shots. Should make a good travel combo with my current Tokina 12-24 f4 (which I love).
As a walkaround, it's just a little heavy, but should be manageable. You might want to wait for the new Canon EF-S 15-85 would be the perfect focal length for walk-around.
Great review. It is my first time in here. I am also a Filipino and learning photography. I become interested in Photography ever since I have been interested in blogging. I own EOS 400d and I have EF 50mm and EF 18-55 ( Kit Lens ) , and EF 70-300 mm Sigma.. I am planning to buy a new one before going to vacation on April 2010.
Would you think that Canon EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM would be a great addition to my lenses. It would be a walk around lens.
Very well written post however, I would recommend that you turn the No Follow off in your comment section.
Keep up the good work.
Can you elaborate on the \\"No Follow\\" part? Thanks
Hi Cham. I'm not a big advocate of recommending new photographers to buy accessories, as the more stuff you have, the harder it is to learn the basics.
Today's entry level cameras are much more sophisticated than the film and older digital SLRs sold when these lenses are available, don't worry about it. :)
Chamdumo: Lenses don’t “choose” what bodies they’re mounted on, per-se. So it’ll work just fine on any EOS system. Most entry level cameras these days are far more technologically superior to the digital pro-cameras 5 years ago, not to mention most L lenses are released during the film days as well, so don’t worry.
hi david! iam new to digital photography. i just purchased a 450D and iam planning to purchase this 24-105 lens. my main concern is will this L lens match or will it be compatible to the entry level cam? what accessories do i need to purchase? thanks
@Dave: Hi and welcome to the site. I agree that if you shoot a lot of available light (low light) events, an f/4 lens won’t be sufficient, but to be honest, I feel that f/2.8 doesn’t offer as much as well, and fast primes are the way to go.
I haven’t used Pro Optic (though I have it) yet, I’m pretty satisfied with my copy but I’m not using a full-frame camera so it’s not as evident at the edges.
I’m using the 24-105 IS with the 5DII. The combination of IS and the exceptional low noise at high ISO performance make this an excellent choice as an all round lens EXCEPT I think that a wedding photographer doing a lot of avialable light might find the 2.8 IS s worth the loss of reach. Also, mine seemed particularly soft at the wide angle end of the zoom range, such that I’d gotten permission to send it in for evaluation and adjustment. I nixed that after I ran across DxO’s incredible Pro Optic software that makes body and lens-specific adjustments for sharpness, vignetting, geometrics, dynamics, you name it. These adjustments are specific to lens and focal length and aperture. The results are stunning, like buying five or eight high quality prime lenses. Sooo, I’ve decided not to send the lens in because I’m afraid
Both lenses will do for general shooting, I’d pick the 24-105 for weight and reach issue over the 24-70. I’d assume you’d get the 5DII kit anyway so the 24-105 will come with it. Sharp photos are more about focusing technique and using the proper shutter speed to freeze motion. Wider apertures on full-frame would render the DOF thinner than on a crop so you need to focus more accurately as well. Either of the lenses would more than suffice, but you might find the 24-70 to be too heavy for your intended purpose.
Thanks for posting your reviews. I’ve got a 400d, so cropped image at 1.6x, but I may upgrade to full frame like 5D mark 2 at some point. I’m looknig for a general purpose lens which would be used for family photos at home and traveling. Young family with a 3 year old and one newborn. Looking for something that can take sharp photos while 3 year old is running around a park as well as something that could be used indoor without a flash. Based on that, any further suggestion between 24-70 or benefit of IS at 24-105? Thanks.
Not sure where you’re at Raymond, if you’re in the US, the 24-105 is 1059, the 24-70 is 1090 in B&H. In the Philippines, the 24-105 costs P50K, while the 24-70 costs P54K.
Nice review. Makes me feel like getting one for myself soon. Wondering what is the kind of price range for the 24-105 IS versus 24-70 f2.8. Appreciate your input.
Hmm, based on the initial price releases, the 24-105 doesn’t seem to be that discounted when packaged with the 5DII.
If you already have a 70-200 and you’re going to use it for weddings, I think the 24-70 will be a better option for you unless you use flash often. Like you said, no brainer.
I’m a prime lens addict as well, but new zooms are quite sharp by itself even if pixel peeped. If I’m using a full-frame, 16-35 or 17-40 + 85mm would be my preferred combo, or 16-35/17-40 + 70-200.
That’s the big thing about these two (24-70/24-105) lenses, they’re not there to replace one another, they both have totally different purposes (I guess that’s why a 2.8 version was not invented for the 24-105) and Canon probably expects us to own both for different applications haha.
thanks for the write-up. :) It’s helpful to me because i’m hanging in the balance between the two lenses. It’s a harder toss up for me because I’m buying the 5Dii and this lens comes at a reduced price as combo purchase, which is attractive. With the state of the economy, the cost of purchasing a 24-70 just went waaaaay up.
I shoot weddings, and 70-200 2.8 IS get me those long shots that are needed. I shoot a lot indoors, so the 24-70 seems like a no brainer for me (especially in wedding/reception situations). I was surprised to see that a side by side test comparison revealed that the 50mm f/1.4 lens at f/2.0 (1.6x cropped) is actually sharper than these 2 zooms. A zoom is a handy feature, but it’s hard to argue with results like that. But I need zooms for candid action because you never know what important moment might pass you by
Here’s something interesting… @f/4, the 24-105 is seemingly sharper than the other L’s that Greg Fong tested.
http://gregfong.blogspot.com/2008/08/16-35-mk-i-vs-24-70-vs-24-105-vs-50-14.html
Prat: Welcome and thanks for commenting.
It would be advisable to turn on IS whenever you won’t need it such as when mounted on a tripod or on other stabilized surface as the IS mechanism may induce movement unnecessarily.
But leaving it on won’t damage anything.
Very good review. This is one of my favorite lenses.
Just one question: Do I need to turn IS off if it’s mounted on a tripod? Would leaving it on damage the IS mechanism?
I purchased this lens mainly for its range + IS. As an advancing beginner, sharpness has never been an issue. I am extremely satisfied with it and overall performance esp when I did in the Super Import Night Show last weekend.
Nice review David. I’ve owned both lenses at one time but I still chose the 24-70 2.8. After a whole month using this lens on my trip abroad, some of the images appear soft/blurry with the IS on even at 1/160. This may be the fault of the IS. However weight, quality, color and contrast are spectacular. For overall sharpness, the 24-70 2.8 still wins.
Hi David,
Nice review =)
I am also a happy owner of this great lens.
I was having difficulty making a choice between the 24-70 f/2.8 and 24-105 f/4. In the end, I chose the 24-105 because I’m doing outdoor most of the time and the additional reach is more useful for me compared to the f/2.8.
Cheers!
Dan
Thanks David for this interesting review. I learned new things from your review. I do have this lens and I exchanged it for my 24-70 lens mainly because of weight issue. However, i’m kind of missing the sharpness my 24-70 gives my images. I am mainly a portrait photographer and the 24-70 L would suit me nicely. I agree with you that our decision in buying lenses should be based on what we need and not what others say. Great review!